TO THE SMOKING BAN...

This article appeared originally in Mumbai Mirror, of the Times Of India group.

SMOKE THIS…



This inconspicuous little shop vying for anonymity holds a tobacconist's treasure trove, finds Rishi Majumder



Tucked away unobtrusively amidst so many other shops along the Fountain area in Fort reads a pale red-lettered sign (spotted with difficulty): One Man Show – Empire Tobacco Company. The 'one man' has now become a family business. But the members refuse to be interviewed: "It's not right to seek fame." When they do, they don't divulge their name for publication: "It's not right to boast publicly about what you're doing as a routine profession." They also refuse to be photographed: "It's not right – it's against our religion." Yet they possess among their wares some of the best pipes, hookahs, cigars, cigarette papers and tobacco in the world. The Empire Tobacco Company plays the Mumbai tobacco connoisseur's magic genie in a non-descript bottle.

"Cigarette papers? Rizla, Smoking and Zig Zag – there's thick paper, hemp paper and rice paper – depending on how fast you want it to burn" outlines our unnamed host. They would've kept more varieties, but "People who come here know what they want." If however you chance to want another specific kind of paper, all you have to do is ask, and they will be ordered. The cigarette tobacco favourites are Samson, Drum and Golden Virginia. But who rolls their cigarette in this day and age? "You'll be surprised. Most of my clients are youngsters," he mutters. One visitor to the shop started rolling his smokes on an Antwerp trip: "The people there told me if I didn't choose my own tobacco and paper, I was a 'man of no taste'!"

"The only way to break a bad habit was to replace it with a better one," said actor Jack Nicholson (one who doesn't mind being quoted... thankfully...) about switching from cigarettes to cigars. Resting in Empire's wood and glass cabinets are some of the world's finest and most exclusive varieties. "Monte Cristo and Romeo And Julietta among the Cubans," he begins rattling the choicest. While the owner refused to price tag these Cubans, grown and hand made only in Cuba, international price listings go up to many hundreds of dollars for a box of them. And rightly so – they've been acknowledged by many a cigar rating agency as the world's best. "We have Villigers which are Swiss made, Dominican Davidoffs and Henry Winterman Café Cremes from Holland," he continues matter-of-factly. These names, thrown away so carelessly, hold special place in many a connoisseur listing, for their unique taste. And then of course are the Indian varieties, with western names – "Churchill Special, La Corona, London Calling, Black Tiger – most of these are manufactured in South India," he continues. Predictably, however, most of his customers go for the foreign cigars. Who might these wealthy buyers be? "Party goers and the corporate crowd. Every person has a specific cigar they get attached to."

Finally we come to an even more choice collection – "All these pipes are made of Briarwood," the unknown wonder emphasizes. Naturally, since many of them come from brands like Savinelli and Plum. Savinelli, which makes pipes from optimum grades of Sardinian and Corsican Briar has been in business from the early 1800s. Its selling line of this pioneer in many a pipe making technology is simple: "To own a Savinelli pipe is to posses a treasure." These 'treasures' in turn come in every conceivable shape and size – "Curved, straight, square, round and oval." There's also a collectors edition: "These are limited editions which are never re-made – so whoever buys them will be the owner of something unique." Delicious pipe tobacco choices include Captain Black, Amphora and Borkumriff. "Pipes are a totally different smoking experience," he underlines. So does Albert Einstein incidentally: "I believe pipe smoking contributes to a calm and objective judgment in all human affairs."

But the voyage into this tobacconist's heart doesn't end here. Cigar cutters, Cigarette rollers, cigarette holders and filters, pipe scrappers, tobacco pouches, lighters and pipe lighters (bent, to suit the lighting style). All from the finest companies - mostly from the same companies that provide the tobacco. Add to that a catalogue of nearly every possible kind of Zippo lighter, ordered on demand. Add to that 16, 24 and 30 inch hookahs made from steel, wood or glass – imported as well as Indian. "Earlier we had a catalogue for a lot of these things, now we have 90% of what was in the catalogue!" And how did they choose such exclusivity? "Through the customer. We have the most discerning customers – they've played our guides." And constant guides they must be for: "To cease smoking is the easiest thing. I ought to know. I've done it a thousand times." Courtesy, Mark Twain...