FOOD REVIEW

Stage lighting designer and photographer Kavi Bhansali first visited Olive Bar and Kitchen in January 2001, which was a few months after it had begun. A regular since, he's been through the various season wise menus the restaurant has changed in and out of, to finally introduce younger brother Shayar Bhansali – a second year arts student and self-confessed cheese aficionado – to the restaurant a year ago. From the Mediterranean menu that Olive, Mumbai had decided for itself when starting out, it has expanded since last year (which was when the current Executive Chef Massimiliano Orlati came in) to include more of authentic Italian fare. It doesn't make sense to review a much reviewed 7 year old restaurant on its continuing décor and service. So the brothers have left these usual sections out, zeroing in on the specialty restaurant's smorgasbord, so sizzlingly new, it's to be launched today.

THE SPREAD
The menu is "revamped" not "merely renovated", says Chef Max. "True to his words, Olive regulars will be surprised by the variety of specialities now showing," Kavi agrees. "Being a stand-alone restaurant, the only competition Olive faces is from speciality restaurants in five-stars, namely Celini (Grand Hyatt), Vitro (Hilton), and Stella (Leela). Nothing else comes close." He goes on to inform his brother – a continuing process: "The added attraction of the five-star breed has always been a promise of authentic, often-imported ingredients, down to their roma tomatoes, but Olive has always matched up." The new menu according to him is no exception. They proceed to order. The wine list showcases a pretty decent collection of new-world wines and heralded vintages.




THE FOOD
Starters
On the Oven Baked Brie with walnuts and pear compote, Shayar observes, "The brie is not of the cheaper blander variety normally found, but a very decent quality… slightly pungent, the more expensive type." But he claims the toasted biscottis have a slight overtone of egg, normally associated with re-heated bread. "And the pear compote balances the pungent brie well." "Culinary perfection is to be witnessed with the Mushroom Carpaccio," Kavi extols. "The wafer-thin mushrooms perfectly complement the smooth provolone cheese, grilled delicately to keep the moisture intact and yet not leave them raw. Finished with pistachio oil, this is the piece de resistance."

Mains
"Porcini and Champignon Paris Risotto! Mushroom lovers experience heaven here!" Kavi maintains. The traditional risotto recipe incorporates generous use of cheese and oil. "Chef Max's risotto is distinctly light though, with a pronounced porcini flavour. He points out that instead of the cheesy, overcooked mess served in most places, the Arborio rice is cooked to the right tenderness revealing a lengthy cooking process, using much moisture from the mushrooms. "The result is a truly exquisite risotto, with overtones of a rich parmeggiano reggiano cheese." When the Sundried Tomato and Ricotta Cheese Flan was served, the accompanying grilled mushroom pieces were so huge that they took them to be "roasted baby potatoes" in the candlelight! "Marinated in an absolutely divine modena and other delightful 'secret ingredients', they deserve to be a main course item on their own!" says Kavi. "The flan itself is so brilliant, that its difficult to dissect, but here's a go: the crust is crumbly, yet not flaky, again pointing to a truly freshly baked piece, and the filling of the ricotta and sundried tomato again shows attention to detail – it's not oily or rich, but fluffy, opting to use fresh sundried tomatoes, instead of the typical preserved-in-oil variety. The grilled spears are full of moisture, with a hint of charcoal grilling."

Deserts

"The Charlotte is an interesting recipe," Shayar muses. "Chocolate on the outside, rich hazelnut cream on the inside… and served on a bed of biscuits. The strawberry compote – the dish's crowning glory – complements the chocolate well." He feels however, that the hazelnut cream and the biscuits don't seem to blend in: "Though that may be a matter of preference."

RE-RUN

"What's going to draw us back to this restaurant the most, hence forth, is Chef Max's culinary sleight of hand. His personal attention to each detail is apparent."

MEAL FOR TWO